Riotous Life Surrounds Us

 

These first few days on the island were very exciting. What time I have spent out in the water (I had gotten a little sick and was unable to snorkel as much as I’d liked to, in addition to my personal gear failing spectacularly) has been incredible. I’ve seen octopus dens, juvenile barracuda, needle fish, and found a species of polychaete worm from a family I’d never heard of call Terebellidaem (commonly called “spaghetti worms”.) 

("Spaghetti Worm" tentacles)

Their bodies stay hidden in a den while long, white tentacles are cast out over the sand like fishing line. They have no stinging cells. The tentacles catch organic debris which sticks to it, and the worm slowly pulls the tentacles in and eats what has stuck to its tentacles. They were truly alien and unsettling in a way I found thrilling. I also saw sting rays shuffling through the sand on the bottom of the shallows near the shore and many crabs, mainly blue land crabs.

I was able to briefly snorkel at night before my gear failed me. It was a little intimidating and spooky, underwater with only the dive light’s narrow beam to see by. When life would enter the light and come into view it was very surprising and exhilarating.

On the island herself, I saw several iguanas, the larger of which let me approach surprisingly close.

(This seems to be one of the smaller of the black-chested, spiny-tailed iguana on the island)

I’ve heard the calls of many birds, however, the only birds that seem inclined to be seen are primarily some kind of grackle and a species of dove/pigeon. I have seen a few lovely, black hummingbirds as well, but only for a few, fleeting moments before they rocket off again in search of better places to feed.

There are also, of course, the very loud and annoyed geckos, which scold us from the rafters of the buildings - informing us that we are in their homes, not the other way around.

The beauty of this place is almost too intense to seem real. There is so much biodiversity it is difficult to keep track of everything I have seen. Everywhere I look, there is vibrant, enthusiastic life. It overwhelms the senses a bit.

The people who run the resort, who are also Garifuna, have been lovely to us. As I understand it, the current manager is the first Garifuna person to have this position, which breaks a lot of the racist norms of the area. I was pleased to learn this, and I hope he is able to do well and prosper in this role. The people here have been very generous and eager to make our stay as comfortable as possible. They are limited by what can be provided in this remote place, but they have managed better than I would have expected.

It has taken me a little while to fall into a routine which suits me. I am quite a bit older than the other students and find it more difficult to keep up with them. However, I am beginning to find I am able to work around the limitations of my body and still get the most out of the activities available to us.

I have deeply enjoyed the lectures from Dr. Gilchrist, but then I knew I would, as I had her for Coastal Processes in the spring. She is extraordinarily knowledgeable of the area – even given that she has been coming here for 37 years. She is a font of knowledge, of things both in and out of the realm of the water, and I am eager to learn from her in the days and weeks to come.